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Bulbophyllum Most Bulbos are in continual growth, except for a brief rest in the cool of the winter. They usually bloom on the matured new growth. If there is a peak bloom period it would probably be spring and early fall. Bulbos prefer to be evenly moist, except a slight drying in the winter. During growth period, the Bulbos should be given heavy waterings, so they are never dry. Because of the wet conditions loved by the Bulbos, fungus can be a problem. A monthly preventative spray of your favorite fungicide is desirable to ward off problems. Good air movement is a must to keep leaf fungus down, because of the heavy watering regime. Most BULBOPHYLLUMS, including the CIRRHOPETALUMS, are easier to grow mounted and to us present a more natural appearance. Most are rambling growers and resent being disturbed; however, they do not seem to mind an occassional clipping of a few unruly leads to keep them neat. In growing most Bulbos, we have found sphaghnum moss pads mounted on the back side of cork slabs to be an excellent growing method. The recurved shape of the cork retains more moisture in the moss pad, which the Bulbos love. We have found the easiest method is to tie the plant with 6 lb test nylon fishing line. There are almost as many ways of mounting Bulbos as there are Bulbonuts. After the plant has recovered from its self imposed pout and the new roots have gained a foothold, the nearly invisible fishing line can be removed. The fishing line does seem to injure the Bulbos, and is usually left in place. Other mounting materials are wood slabs, driftwood, cactus wood, tree fern plaques, TF pots, TF totems, and TF balls. Wood baskets with moss or osmunda pads are a close second choice. If a potted Bulbo is your choice, they will enjoy any loose well drained media. The bulk of Bulbos have numerous short roots which do not penetrate the media deeply, so shallow media is a must to avoid root rots. Preferred light conditions are bright shade. If adjusted slowly, full morning sun up to noon is enjoyed by most Bulbos. If you can comfortably read a newspaper without squinting or straining to see then you have the right light. Fertilization is simple - Bulbos love to eat. 1/4 strength at each
watering is sure to keep them happy. We have found organic
fertilizers, such as fish emulsion, cow manure teas are enjoyed.
The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. We
prefer non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea
fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which
urea based fertilizers do not. If you use the urea, salt based
fertilizers ensure no salt residue are left in the roots. Always
flush, with clear water, monthly to protect the short tender
roots from fertilizer burn. Catasetum flowers are usually either male or female; seldom are they perfect, i.e. hermaphroditic. Since flowers of the two sexes from the same species are significantly different, there has been considerable confusion regarding taxonomy in the genus. Interestingly, male flowers of species are equipped with an antenna-like trigger device which is attached to the column. When irritated or bumped by a curious, unsuspecting insect visitor, it fires the pollen-charged anther cap onto the insect's body, where it adheres. This is one of the most unique developments among species of this highly evolved family -- the orchids. Catasetums can be grown with as much light as for cattleyas or as little as for phalaenopsis. However, growth is most vigorous under the brighter conditions and the heavier bulbs produced are capable of yielding more substantial inflorescences of better quality blooms. Generally, female flowers are produced in bright light; in some cases, near full sun conditions may be required to obtain this response. As the plants complete their flowering cycle, they will lose their foliage and require less light. Plant catasetums in a well-drained medium, e.g. New Zealand sphagnum moss, tree fern, etc., and in a container which encourages good drainage; orchid pots or wood slat baskets have proven effective. Repotting should ideally be done just as the plants are making growth, usually spring. Watering may become more regular and heavier as growth increases, producing more roots to satisfy the plants' needs. These adjustments are made as days become longer, brighter and warmer, resulting in heavy growth which will maximize potential for flower production in the fall. Of course, as the plant uses more water, it can also use more fertilizer, preferably 20-20-20 at the rate of one teaspoon/gallon of water applied as frequently as once each week. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-20-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Plants need not be unpotted and dried out after flowering; however, do withhold water from plants in containers until growth begins in spring. As catasetum spikes become 4"-6" long, begin careful staking which may be
helpful in encouraging good flower arrangement on the developing
inflorescence. Be certain to leave the plant facing the same
direction during inflorescence development. Do not probe the
male flowers at any time, for these may be accidentally
emasculated, causing them to fold prematurely. Cattleya Alliance members grow best in medium light intensity. If possible full eastern sun (morning), up until noon can be given. Unless protected, during the hottest part of the day, the flattened leaves will burn in full sun. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching their full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. Most members of this alliance can be successfully grown, and flowered, under lights. In very mild climates, most members of this alliance can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter. Cattleya Alliance enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before re watering . In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. Cattleya Alliance plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Cattleya Alliance plants happy. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-20-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Cattleya Alliance do not resent being disturbed, so re potting should be
undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all
flowering has ceased. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak
for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to
remove from the container. The best potting container for
Cattleya Alliance plants is clay orchid pots. The plastic pots
are second choice and considerable cheaper. Water in plastic
pots does not evaporate as fast as in clay pots, but if
adjustments in watering frequency are made no problems will be
encountered. Wooden baskets can be used to grow specimen size
plants, as the plants can grow in the same basket for many
years. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and
eliminate over watering problems. The potting medium must be
well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, river rocks,
pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood
charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry
quickly. When dividing Cattleya Alliance plants, always divide
into parts with four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the
divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth
begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions
in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized
as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they
retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should
be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks Dendrobium Dendrobiums can generally be handled as cattleya during the growing season. Good light, air circulation, and drainage are essential for successful culture here. Regardless, should your plants not flower in the first season, try moving them to a different location in the growing area to give more or less light, warmer or cooler temperatures or more air circulation. Where a resting or dormant period is recommended, reduce the frequency of watering enough to prevent severe dehydration or shriveling of the pseudobulbi. Occasional misting may be adequate to maintain the plant while inducing the dormancy which preceeds flowering. Do not fertilize during the dormant or resting period.
THE NOBILE GROUP ------- nobile, chrysanthum, devonianum, topaziacum, and their
hybrids THE ANOSMUM GROUP ------ anosmum, friedericksianum, heterocarpum, lituiflorum, parishii, pierardii, primulinum, aggregatum , jenkinsii and their hybrids --- Most plants in this group are deciduous, the exceptions being lind and jenkinsii. Recommended culture for these is similar to that of the Nobile Group. However, fall-winter night temperatures may be slightly higher,i.e.55° -60° F (13° -15° Celsius). This group will mature the new growth prior to dormancy. So begin the dormancy treatment, reduced water, fertilizers, etc, when the new growth is completed in the early fall. Some plants in this group may not flower until late spring. The new growth usually begins when flowering is complete. THE FARMERI GROUP ------ chrysotoxum, densiflorum, farmeri , thyrsiflorum and their hybrids --- The plants in this group do not lose their leaves. They are evergreen species which do not go dormant during the year. However, for best results these plants should be allowed to experience cooler temperatures during the fall, preferably with 50° -55° F. (10° -13° Celsius) nights. If the cooler night temperatures can not be provided, then growing the plants slightly drier during the fall-winter will often work. Do not without permit the plants to completely dry out as in dormancy. THE FORMOSUM GROUP (formerly the Nigrohirsute) ------- dearei. formosum, infundibulum, jamesianum, pulchellum and their hybrids --- This group is easily distinguished from the other groups, by the easily seen black hairs on the stems of the plants. Particularly noticeable on the young plants or new "canes". These evergreen species enjoy similiar conditions as cattleyas; however the best flowering response results from exposure to winter night temperatures of 55° - 60°F. (13 -15 °Celsius). The flowers are fragile looking and often thin substance, but are very long lasting. As with most new growth, be very careful not to overwater just as the new growth matures. THE 'CANE TYPE' GROUP ------- antennatum, canaliculatum, ciliatum, discolor, dixanthum, gouldii, leonis, and their hybrids --- These evergreen dendrobiums should be grown as cattleyas year 'round, but avoid temperatures below 60°F. (15° Celsius). Although species of this group are not always available, their more common hybrids are. Their hybrids have become the most popular dendrobiums among orchid enthausists. In fact the plants in this group are generally in year around growth and produce multiflowerings. These traits in part explain their popularity. The flowers of many of the 'cane-type' hybrids are relatively large, long-lasting, and are available in a multitude of colors. THE PHALAENOPSIS GROUP ---- bigibbum, phalaenopsis, superbiens, dicuphum -- Also evergreen, these species and their hybrids should be kept warm all year. Do not expose these plants to temperatures below 60° F. (15° Celsius). This group is best grown under cattleya conditions. The mini dendrobs are derived from compact, small flowering varieties of this group. The minis should be treated exactly as their bigger cousins in this group. As with other dendrobiums, care must be exercised in not overwatering between flowering and appearance of new growth. It Is not unusual for these plants to lose some leaves during the year. Use a well-drained potting medium such as tree fern, fir bark, charcoal or stone to grow dendrobiums. You may also use osmunda, tree fern, or cork plaques/slabs. In any case, repot only as frequently as may be necessary to keep the potting medium fresh, avoiding severe decomposition which impairs drainage and air circulation in the root zone. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. When repotting is necessary, accomplish the task when your plants are in growth. At that time, dead or nonfunctional bulbs may be removed. Be certain, of course, to retain enough physical structure to keep the plant strong. Remember that leafless bulbs still serve as storage facilities for food and water. Always underpot. The underpotting encourages flowering. Slow release fertilizers may be sparingly applied to the surface of the potting medium during the growing season to promote vigorous growth when plants are given higher light intensity. The Chinese
have long believed that certain species of Dendrobium orchids
make people stronger and more able to withstand life's vicissitudes.
They continue to use dendrobiums in medicine today as Yin (to
balance the Yang) for the stomach and appetite. Research has shown
that some of these orchids have antibacterial and anti-tumor
properties. Oncidium Besides Oncidium, species and hybrids of the following genera are considered to be members of the Oncidium Alliance: Aspasia, Brassia, Gomesa, Maxillaria, Miltonia, Ornithocephalus, Psychopsis, Psygmorchis, Rodriguezia, Tolumnia, and Zygopetalum. Extensive hybridizing among members of the Alliance has produced a number of man made genera. Oncidium Alliance genera grow well in moderate ( Cattleya) light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. The terete ( ie;"rat-tail" oncidiums Onc.ascedens), or the heavy, fleshy "mule-ears"( Onc. luridum) will tolerate a lot more sun than the ribbony, grass like foliage ( Onc. flexuosum). Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it's full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. The "mule-ear" Oncidiums will develop a purplish tint to their leaves in higher light, instead of the lime green coloring. The purplish tint indicates proper lighting for thesetypes. Most members of this alliance can be successfully grown, and flowered, under lights. In very mild climates, most members of this alliance can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter. Oncidium Alliance enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a two or three week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before re watering . In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth. Oncidium Alliance plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Oncidium Alliance plants happy. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Oncidium roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Oncidiums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium. Oncidium Alliance do not resent being disturbed, so re potting should be
undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all
flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To
minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will
make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the
container. The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse
fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree
fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but
then dry quickly. Examine your plants on a regular basis. Always remove the dried sheathing from pseudobulbs to prevent buildup of moisture, and as a hiding place for insects. In nature, the breeze removes the sheath. In captivity, you must remove the sheath. The removal of the sheath also provides more surface for photosynthesis activity. Insects, particularly scale insects, find Oncidium Alliance plants attractive. Also slugs and snails will dine on these plants. Following the label recommendations on your favorite insecticide will usually solve any insect problem. 70% isopropyl alcohol and dish soap make a good alternative insecticide for small outbreaks. The Butterfly Orchids, now known as Psychopsis such as
Onc.
papilo, are successive bloomers. They will continue to bloom
from the same inflorescence for several years. At the same time,
the Butterfly Orchids will mature additional inflorescences, so
do not remove the flowering stem after flowering is completed. Paphiopadilum require somewhat more shaded but otherwise similar cultural conditions to those of Cattleyas. None of the paphs should be kept wet nor should they be watered in such a way as to cause the accumulation of moisture in their crowns. Phrags, on the other hand, are reported to thrive in standing water setups, but no moisture in the crowns. Light requirements can be adequately satisfied on a window sill where early morning (until 9:30-10:00 am) sun hits the plant directly. Then, the plant will tolerate medium light intensity (slightly more shaded than cattleya conditions) for the balance of the day. As always, light intensity and temperature are related; the hot mid-day or afternoon sun will provide terrific light, but will also cause the leaf temperature to soar, with resulting burns. Use care in selecting the appropriate window sill. The medium in which paphiopedilum species grow in nature is basically humus. Therefore, the medium used in cultivation should not be too dense, to allow for circulation of air through the medium. Try a generic mix comprised by volume of 4 parts fine fir bark, 3 parts medium-coarse shredded tree fern, 1.5 parts coarse perlite, 1.5 builder's sand, plus one-half pound of dried cow manure in each cubic foot of mix. The resulting medium is well-drained and has excellent nutrient retention characteristics. However, one must be certain that the soil reaction (pH) of the mix is basic. If necessary, add dolomitic limestone as a top dressing on the medium in the pot to increase the pH to approximately 8. Repot paphiopedilums only during periods of growth. Select plants to be handled when a new growth emerges from the side of the existing plant to insure that the plant will continue its vegetative growth cycle with a minimum of setback.
During the growing season, use 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer every
10-14 days at the rate of 1 teaspoon to a gallon of water.
Remember that the roots of paphiopedilums are negatively
sensitive to excess salts in the medium. Be certain to leach
thoroughly between fertilizer applications to minimize the
accumulation of salts which can cause root tip burn. Reduce
frequency and rate of fertilization during the periods of
reduced temperature and shorter days (November-March) in the
northern hemisphere. Phalaenopsis are low light orchids; they will grow and flower reliably in natural or artificial light as low as 300-500 foot-candles(fc). However, 1000 to 1500 fc is the perferred level. To test for the correct light level, place your hand between the source and the phal. If the shadow of your hand is fuzzy or indistinct, then the light is sufficient. If the outline of the shadow is sharp, then the light is too bright. If introduced to the brighter conditions gradually, Phalaenopsis can be grown in lower Cattleya light. For Phalaenopsis, morning sun until 10:00 AM, will be tolerated, but protection from the sun after that time is necessary. Unless protected, during the hottest part of the day, the flattened leaves will burn. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of improper light. In Phalaenopsis, dark green foliage is indicative of the perfect light. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. However, hybrids of Phalaenopsis involving sun-loving genera as immediate parents must have brighter light to bloom well. Phalaenopsis enjoy frequent watering year around. Like their Vandaceous cousins, Phals have only their leaves and stems to store water. At their roots, Phals like to be damp year around, but not soppy wet. The foliage must stay dry, or you invite possible rot problems. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are never allow to dry out. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week may be necessary. The use of peat based "mud" mixes can extended the watering period, but close watch must be maintained to avoid soggy conditions in the pot leading to root rots. Phals are "heavy" feeders, particularly when in full growth. During the Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Phal plants very happy. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Use 20-10-20 with coconut chips, tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark, as the microbes destroying your bark need more N in their diet. The peat based combinations, such as ProMix®, often have supplemental fertilizer, so somewhat less fertilizer should be used with this medium. Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Phalaenopsis roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Phalaenopsis are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. Repotting Phalaenopsis often initiate a growth cycle. Many hobbyists recommend at least a yearly repotting, if the medium is still good. An immediate repotting is necessary, anytime the medium breaks down and starts holding too much water. The best time to repot Phalaenopsis is as new growth starts. After removing the plant, shake off all the old potting medium, and remove the dead roots. If the roots are white and firm, they are healthy. The flower buds, and flowers, of Phalaenopsis will turn toward the source of strongest light. To avoid twisted stems, do not change the orientation of the pot to the source of the strongest light. Phal plants are highly susceptible to crown rots. The fungus causes cellular collapse and rotting of roots, pseudobulbs and leaves in quick succession. First symptom is likely to be yellowing of leaves. Plants infected should be immediately removed from others. This disease has been known to wipe out a whole section of plants in a day or two. Dip plants into a fungicide solution according to directions. You should always avoid water in the apex of the plant, particularly during cool weather or extended rainy periods. Water early, so the crown area will be dry before the cool of the night. Tilting the pot slightly, will help water run out of the crown. During cool, rainy periods, an application of Physan20, Dithane M-45, 50% Captan, or Kocide 101 fungicide to the crown will prevent rot. If growing outside, during rainy periods an occasional application is a good preventative measure also. Several applications may be necessary if the cool, rainy period is extensive. The fungicide dries in the crown and forms a protective layer. Botrytis fungus will quickly ruin flowers of Phalaenopsis. with its ugly spots. The best defense against Botrytis is good air circulation, and keeping the flowers dry during cool, damp periods. The fungus is not threatening to the plant, it just causes unsightly damage to the flowers. Phalaenopsis can be vegetatively propagated by two methods. The first method is by cutting the flowering stem above a stem internode, the dormant growth "eye" is covered with a triangular sheath. Cut, with a hot knife or shears, through the flower stem after the last flower has fallen. Then move the plant to a dimmer area. In most cases, new plants will start from the dormant "eyes ". After the new plants initiate, the the mother and "keikis " (babies) can be move gradually back to higher light. When the keikeis have 2-3 " roots, the "keikis " can be removed, by slicing between the the stem and the keikei, or cutting the stem above and below keikei's attachment point. The new plant can now be potted up and grown on. If more flowers are desired, cut the stem as above, but do not move the plant. In the second method, the mother plant is topped. As a monopodial plant, Phals continue to grow vertically. In time, they discard their lower leaves. The leaves have served as a storage vessel of water and nutrients. The leaves have outlived their usefulness and are discarded. New roots are produced above the leafless stem, as the Phal continues growing vertically. The stem can be cut below the new roots. The top part, with leaves and roots, can be repotted after proper care of the cut. The remaining stub can be left as is, for a few days/weeks. Soon, new little plants will be found growing out of the old stub. These keikeis can be repotted in the same manner as the first method. They will grow on and eventually bloom. If left on the stub, they will often bloom sooner, than if individually potted.
Rhynchostylis Rhynchostylis gigantea Rhynchostylis retusa Vanda Included in this group are species and hybrids of the following genera: Aerides, Angraecum, Ascocentrum, Euanthe, Gastrochilus, Neofinetia, Papilionanthe, Plectrelminthus, Renanthera, Rhynchostylis, Saccolabium, Sarcanthus, Trichoglottis, Vanda, Vandopsis, and a number of man made genera, such as Aranda, Ascocenda, Mokara, to name a few. Vandaceous genera grow best in high light intensity. If possible full eastern sun (morning), up until noon should be given. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. The terete (pencil like, ie; Papilionanthe) or semi-terete foliage will tolerate full sun (maximum light) if acclimated properly. However, the flattened surfaces of strap-leaf foliage will absorb more heat. Unless protected, during the hottest part of the day, strap leaves will burn in full sun. It has been reported that vandaceous species and modern vandaceous hybrids can be grown and flowered successfully in low light (i.e., Phalaenopsis light). As a rule of thumb, if growing in low light, reduce the water and fertilizers frequency. Vandaceous Orchids enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and if any water retaining medium is in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are dry within a few hours. In the warmer periods, several waterings a day can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The increased watering provides cooling effects, as well as prevents possible dehydration and burning. The roots are designed to absorb water quickly, and if grown in baskets and/or net pots, without medium, over watering will never be a problem. Vandaceous Orchids are "heavy" feeders, particularly when in full growth. During the Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Vandaceous plants happy. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-20-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Vandaceous plants highly resent being disturbed, so re potting should be undertaken only when absolutely necessary. The best time is in late spring, such as April or May, after all flowering has ceased. Avoid disturbing the root system any more than necessary. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easy to manipulate. Hardwood slat baskets are the best container for Vandaceous orchids. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems. An alternative is slotted plastic net pots, or clay orchid pots. The plastic net pots allow a similar air flow as baskets, and are considerable cheaper. Clay pots do not allow as free air movement as the first two, but if adjustments in watering frequency are made no problems will be encountered. If potting medium is used, the medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, pieces of lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet but then dry quickly.Vandaceous plants will grow perfectly well if no medium is used, providing the watering schedule is increased. Vandaceous plants are highly susceptible to crown rots. You should always avoid water in the apex of the plant, particularly during cool water or extended rainy periods. Water early, so the crown area will be dry by the cool of the night. During cool, rainy periods, an application of 50% Captan, Kocide 101 or Dithane M-45 fungicide to the crown will prevent rot. If growing outside, during rainy periods an occasional application is a good preventative measure also. Several applications may be necessary if the cool, rainy period is extensive. The fungicide dries in the crown and forms a protective layer.
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